LLL EEEEEE GGGGGG EEEEEE NN NN DDD D LLL EEE GGG EEE NNNN NN DDD D LLL EEEEEE GGG GGG EEEEEE NN NN NN DDD D LLLLLLL EEE GGG GG EEE NN NN NN DDD D LLLLLLL EEEEEE GGGGGGGG EEEEEE NN NNNN DDDD OOOOOOO FFFFFFF OO OO FF OO OO FFFF OO OO FF OOOOOOO FF MM MM A NN NN A MMM MMM A A NNNN NN A A MM M M MM AAAAA NN NN NN AAAAA MM MM MM A A NN NN NN A A MM MM A A NN NNNN A A 0000 0000 00 00 0000000000 00 00 00 00 00 00000 00 00 00 00 00 0000 0000 00 000000 00 00 00 0000 0000 0000 00 0000 00 00 00 0000 0000 00 00 0000 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0000 00 0000 00 00000000 PETS AND PLANTS 00 0000 00 00000000000000000000000 LEGEND OF MANA: Pets and Plants -------------------------------- Written by KurasuSoratobu (kurasufaqs@gmail.com) Present version: 6.2 INDEX ------- Copyright info Introduction Why the mini-FAQ? A) PETS A1.............. Egg Locations and directions A2.............. Demi-humans A3.............. Catching Eggs A4.............. Egglist A5.............. Newborn Monster Stats and Gains A6.............. Synchro Effects A7.............. Monster By Monster B) PLANTS B1.............. Produce B2.............. Produce And Stats B3.............. Personalities B4.............. Meats B5.............. Seeds and Planting Update Info Still To Come Requests Thanks To... COPYRIGHT INFO -------------- Legend Of Mana: Pets And Plants FAQ, copyright 2000-2012 Kurasu Soratobu. This file may not be published in part, or without this Copyright, without explicit permission from the author. Legend Of Mana, Seiken Densetsu, etc. are all rights of Squaresoft. If someone wants to post this list to their site, please get in touch with me at kurasufaqs@gmail.com and ask. I am more than happy to let people post this elsewhere, so long as I can get the full credit for it, and can be aware of where it's going for my own personal knowledge. Please make certain you put 'FAQ', 'Legend Of Mana', or 'Pets And Plants' in the title so I file it in other-than-junk. Any corrections, additions, suggestions, and whatever can be sent to kurasufaqs@gmail.com. If you are wanting to speak with me directly, then depending on which IM service you use I am AIM: KurasuSoratobu, MSN: Kurasu@hotmail.com, Yahoo: kurasu, and @KurasuSoratobu on Twitter. I can't promise I'll be uber-chatty, though I'm always willing to answer questions! INTRODUCTION -------------- If you don't know what Legend Of Mana is, then why are you reading this FAQ? The Legend Of Mana is a ridiculously addictive RPG, put out by Squaresoft. This game is the fourth in the Seiken Densetsu (as in Secret Of Mana, etc.) series. It may be more 'childlike' in appearance than the other games, but it is not in the least bit easy. This game is fun, challenging, and pleasantly engaging for people of all ages. In the game, you not only can place lands and such to gain the adventures, but you can (as the game progresses) create weapons and armor, build your own golems, play mini-games, raise produce, and hatch and care for your own pet monsters. This mini-FAQ, of course, is about the last two. WHY THE MINI-FAQ? ------------------ While I've managed to find information on pets here and there on the web, I've yet to find a good FAQ on how to raise, care for, fight with, etc. them. Therefore, I decided that if I'm going to gather the information into one file for myself, that I may as well set it up into something that more folks can use. While many people prefer the golems for their power and their abilities, I actually like getting out monsters and playing with them, as well as raising them. Also, a well-raised monster can garner some good money, if you're in the need for a few bucks to make that perfect sword (check out the tempering FAQs, and you'll see how much money you can need for such things!). Also, there are things that the pets can do that no golem (at least, none I've found) can do. For instance: the extra XP given by an imp. Or the 'rare item' trick that the Polter Boxes can bring you. These things alone make the pets worthwhile. Besides, the pets are a lot of fun to raise and work with. +=+=+=+=+=+ + A) PETS + +=+=+=+=+=+ A1) EGG LOCATIONS AND DIRECTIONS -------------------------------- The eggs are always found in the same areas of the game. These spots are usually an ex-boss area, though a few areas aren't anything in particular except for this. Each area holds one particular type of egg, and each one can possibly give any of the monsters of that type. Depending on how far the place is from your home, the larger and more powerful creature-eggs will pop up more often. For example, you've got the road right beside your house; finding a Garuda egg will probably take a considerable amount of time (an hour or more). However, if you go hunting it on the Norn Peaks, which you have placed a long, long ways away from your house (as an example), it will take you a lot less time to find it. This is especially noticable with the particularly powerful monsters. Mana levels themselves don't seem to have anything to do with finding the creatures about. Spirits can also be found at these locations, so if you go to one and find a spirit rather than an egg, don't get discouraged; just back out (or trap the spirit) and come back. The eggs will eventually show. Location | Type -----------------+---------------- Bone Fortress | Undead Duma Desert | Arthropod Fieg Snowfields | Dragon Gato Grottoes | Morph Jungle | Demonic Jungle | Plant Junkyard | Poltergeist Lake Kilma | Beast Lake Kilma | Plant Luon Highway | Aerial Luon Highway | Reptile Mekiv Caverns | Oddity Mekiv Caverns | Reptile Madora Beach | Aquatic Madora Beach | Morph Norn Peaks | Aerial Norn Peaks | Arthropod S. S. Buccaneer | Aquatic Tower Of Leires | Poltergeist Ulkan Mines | Oddity White Forest | Beast *The Duma Desert egg location is only available after the 'Fluorite' event, once the sand-falls have been removed. NOTE: I've seen several mentions on-line about there being an egg situated in the Mindas Ruins area. I've never been able to find it. If anyone has been able to find an egg in this area at all, I would greatly appreciate the information on where the section is hidden, and what you can pull up there. Also, if there are any others I've missed, please tell me where they are and what sort of eggs you can get there. Directions: Bone Fortress: Enter the elevator and go to the third floor. Go left, up the staircase, through the ribcage hallway, and you're there. Duma Desert: Thanks to sand-falls, this location is only available after you have completed the 'Fluorite' quest. Go right to the first fork, up, fight your way through the next area, go to the left side of the next fork (this is one place sand will have blocked), continue left until you reach another fork, go left here (again: where a sand-fall used to be), then finally up. Feig Snowfields: The path is straightforward for the most part. There will be only one way you can go on each screen until you get to the save point. From there, go south, the one just to the left of where you came in (like you were going to pick up the succubus), then go directly to the right. Again: the path is one-way, until you come to Queen Altena's hill. Gato Grottoes: The caves of this place all interlink, making it quite the maze. Go to the dungeon, first thing. From there, turn left and enter the first cave, down the stairs, and into the next area. Go left from there and into the next room, through two Slimes, and out the doorway. Take the pathway down, go left, and enter the cave there. If you've gone the right way, you should find a bridge here. Cross that and go up the stairs in the next room, then turn right, where you'll fight two Shadow Zeroes and a Slime. Keep going right, fight your way through two Spectres, and enter the first cave going upwards. Straight up those stairs, and you'll find the meditation room. Jungle (Demonic Egg): Take the shortcut: use the psychokinetic flowerling and go to the Forested Ruins. Once you're there, go down the path that's south of the save point, cut left, fight your way through two Zombies and a Gloommoth, and keep going on that path. Two Malboros will be here, and further up, a Tyrannos and a Spiny Shell. Keep going left, and you'll find yourself in this room. Jungle (Plant Egg): Again, borrow the psychokinetic one, and head for the Forested Ruins. This time, though, backtrack on the path. Go right from there, and you'll find yourself in the Du'Cate's Territory. Keep going to the right from there, and you'll find yourself at the lake, where the egg will be. Junkyard: Getting to this one is just a matter of remembering the pattern to get to the pile. Go to the northern path (Jack in the Box), then the first to the south (teddy bear), then straight west (doll), continue until you reach the next fork area, then upwards into the cave-looking spot. Circle around to the rocking horse path, then continue east until you reach the pile. Lake Kilma (Plant Egg): Go straight to the left, on first entering. Keep going left until you reach the first fork, then take the path upward. Go right until you reach the fork, then continue directly to the right. At the save point is another fork. This time, take the fork that leads down, immediately turn back to the left as soon as you enter the next screen, and continue left until you reach the egg. Lake Kilma (Beast Egg): Go straight to the left, on first entering. Keep going left until you reach the first fork, then take the path upward. Go right until you reach the fork, then take the path slightly upwards. Luon Highway (Aerial Egg): Travel right until you reach the save point, and a fork. Continue straight to the right from there and you'll eventually find yourself at the Lorant Tableland, where the egg is. Luon Highway (Reptile Egg): Talk to the Boink. Take the pathway down and toward the left, until you reach the Chobin Hood Cave. Go inside, then down the stairs and continue left. Keep going, and you'll find yourself in the room. Mekiv Caverns (Oddity Egg): Take the upper-right path in the caverns. Fight through the three bloodsuckers, continue, and go to the upper-right path again. Follow this path to the next major fork (three-way), go across (northeast instead of due east), and fight off the mushboom and the skeleton here. When you travel slightly to the north, you'll find a room where a land dragon might show up. If it doesn't, this is where your egg is. Mekiv Caverns (Reptile Egg): Speak to the boink at the lower left hand spot. Once you've been teleported to his tail, go west, then take the lower left path down to 'Cavern level 3'. You'll have two mushbooms and a pincher crab to fight. Finish them off and go down. After the second hallway, you'll find yourself in the Stalagmite Cavern, where the egg is. Madora Beach (Aquatic Egg): From the entrance, go right. Keep going until you find the cave and enter it. Once inside (and after doing any crab-smashing you want), go to the lower right. Follow the cave until you get to another crab-cavern, smash as you wish, then go to the cave in the upper right corner. This'll lead you outside, and to the aquatic egg room. Madora Beach (Morph Egg): The directions to this are the same as to Eastend Beach, for the most part: right, into the cave, lower right. However, once you're at the cavern where you go upper right to Eastend, go to the upper left instead. Keep going until you come to the cave and go inside. When you get to the open cavern (with crabs to bash again), go to the lower right path. Norn Peaks (Aerial Egg): Take the straightforward path up the low hillside and through the Windcallers' Village. Once you get to the mountain trail with its forking directions, go to the right. From there, go left to the next screen, and then go northeast. You'll face off with two Eye Spys and a Howler. At the next fork over, go to the upper right again. The path will be straightforward for a few screens, then finally lead to a large room with two paths. Go to the left path and you're there. Norn Peaks (Arthropod Egg): First, take the straightforward path up the low hillside and through the Windcallers' Village. Continue until you reach the mountain trail with its forking directions, then go right. From there, left to the next screen and then left again. One final left to the 'Land Of The Clouds' and bingo! Your arthropod eggs. S.S. Buccaneer: Yes. There's actually an egg on an inhabited ship, in the middle of the ocean. Such an odd, odd game, I know! Anyhow, to get to this egg, go to the forecastle deck and head down the stairs there. Enter the door that's directly to the left and go down the set of stairs within. Go to the door at the left end of the hallway, to a room where there's two Sahagins, and then down that set of stairs. Go through the door, and your egg will be there. Tower of Leires: Once you've entered the tower, go immediately to the right. Follow the path around until you reach the stairs and go up. Follow this path around, ignoring the door and going instead up the path, around, and outside. This will lead you to the third floor. From here, go in the door with the transportation device and transport. You'll now be on the sixth floor. From here, head left from the doorway and go down the stairs. You'll find yourself at the fifth floor, beside a gold sprite statue. Go right and down, ignoring the door and following the hallway around to a staircase, which will bring you back to the sixth floor (but on the opposite side). Exit, go up these stairs, and you'll be at the seventh floor. Follow it right, through the door and up the stairs, and you'll be on the eighth floor. Go all the way left, then down instead of through the door, and continue to the door in the wall. This transporter will hop you up to the tenth floor. Go left from there, up the stairs, and circle the hall. There's the door to the room of fate and within, your Poltergeist egg. Whew. Now you just need to find your way... out. Ulkan Mines: First off, take the Dudbear Express. Exit the digger's hideout and go south. Defeat the springball, then go to the left through the door you just opened, and up the stairs. Go all the way through the room and take the upper left path. Continue along the straightforward path (there'll be one set of stairs leading down, but they'll be blocked off) the entire way, and you'll end up in the room with the egg. White Forest: As soon as you enter, go to the lower right path. Follow the pathway until you get to the large room and then go to the lower-left path. Destroy the rattler boas and keep going until you reach the gold statue. From here, go due left. The path will wind around until you're in another large room with multiple exits. Take the upper left path, follow that around, and then head to the upper left again. Egg-time! A2) DEMI-HUMANS --------------- These sneaky little critters can't be found in eggs. Each one is found as-is, fully-grown and named, in a certain area, when the mana levels in that section reach a certain level. There is only one of each type, and they sell for 10g, no matter what the age, power, etc. they are. However, as pets, they're well worth the trouble to find, due to their power, special abilities, and just plain coolness value. Monster | Location | Mana Level ------------------------------------------- Chobin Hood | Jungle | Dryad 3 Goblin | Lumina (city) | Shade 3 (and dryad 3 as well?) Mad Mallard | Lake Kilma | Wisp 3 Narcissos | Junkyard | Gnome 3 Sahagin | Desert | Dryad 3 Succubus | Fieg Snowfield | Shade 3 Tomato Man | Norn Peaks | Salamander 3 Exact locations: Chobin hood: Somewhat South of the faerie's territory, wandering around near a jungle fork. From the entrance: go right, then take the first path up, then all the way to the left. Goblin: Lumina's 'Crescent Moon Alley'. The alleyway northeast of the bar. Mad Mallard: The first fork other than the entrance. Narcissos: The entrance of the junkyard. You need to go through the upper path at the entrance, the lower path in the next area (teddy bear), lower-left in the next (rocking horse), then through the path and out. Sahagin: After completing the sub-quest 'The Wimpy Thugling', you find him in the fork just beyond the entrance. Simply go due right, and he'll be wandering around waiting for you. Succubus: The large field, just below the save point. Go through the screens until you reach the save point (it's a direct path), then take the path south, just left of the one you arrived from. Tomato Man: The foot of Norn Peaks. He is directly off the entrance; you can't miss him. To get these monsters, just make sure you haven't got a pet along with you and that you have a space in your stable, and talk to the demi-human walking around. They will join you as a pet, and from then on are treated like any normal pet (i.e. they can be fed, leveled, grazed, sold, etc.). Be warned: if you sell your Demi-human, you can't get another of that type again until you start another game. However, you can leave them wandering around in the spot forever, until you decide to pick them up. A3) CATCHING EGGS ----------------- While this is explained in the game, catching your eggs is important to the actual getting of your pets. Therefore, I figure I may as well put the info down here, as well, just for the ease of people playing. There are two ways to catch an egg. The first way is to feed them until they fall asleep. To do this, just drop pieces of meat or produce around (up to four at a time), and stay out of the monster's field of vision (as shown by the direction it's walking and the direction of the arrows above its head). Eventually, it will face one of the foods and go running up to it to eat it. Once it's eaten, it will either continue to wander (upon which time you need to let it eat again) or a little 'z' will start appearing above its head. That's when you run up to it and catch it. Eggs will eat a maximum of two items before they fall asleep, and it sometimes only takes one. NOTE: Dragon eggs and poltergeist eggs are picky, eating only produce, rather than meat. Undead and demonic eggs are picky in the opposite direction: only meat, no produce. In addition, several eggs will not eat rotten meat even if they would normally eat other meats. If they dislike the food, a little 'X' will appear in the balloon, rather than a heart. If that happens, better change to something else; feeding them those won't get you anywhere. The second way to catch an egg is to outwit it. This is harder, but it saves on meat and produce. All you have to do is walk around behind the egg, keeping out of its line of 'sight' until the balloon above its head turns from arrows into a blank space, or a space with '...' in it. Then, you just run up and catch it, as though it were sleeping after eating. This can be difficult, but I find it a lot of fun to try. Just be ready: it doesn't last forever. Just a matter of three or four seconds at best, and then the monster's back to wandering. NOTE: Some eggs (particularly aquatic and poltergeist) are quite fast, and therefore hard to follow. In addition, oddity eggs and poltergeist eggs are the same on all sides, making it hard to tell which way they're facing. In fact, it's a lot easier to try catching poltergeist eggs by food (because of their speed, erratic movements, and the facing problem) than following them around for a while. Here are basic descriptions on how the basic eggs act and look: Aquatic: This egg has no feet on it, though it does have a pair of little fins, a fish-tail, and a smiling, fishy mouth. It hops about, rather than walks. And boy, can it hop. They're speedy in movements, making them hard to keep track of even while the sides are extremely obvious. Fortunately, they'll eat both meat and produce, so you'll have a good selection of 'weapons' against them. Unfortunately, rotten meat isn't on the menu. Arthropod: This is a little egg with pointy feet, a pair of antennae, a jagged line for a mouth, and little fly wings on its back. They move pretty erratically and turn quickly, though it's very easy to tell which side is which, so you know where their back is. They can be fed on produce and meat both, and don't mind rotten meat. Fly eggs. Go figure. Aerial: Aerial eggs look just like little birds. They have a pair of small wings, birdlike feet, a feathery little tail, and a beak where its mouth should be. Their movement is fairly slow, and they're not ones to make abrupt turns or surprise steps. They aren't vultures, so they won't touch rotten meat, but otherwise either produce or meat will work on them. Beast: A pair of little paws and a toothy mouth identify the beast egg. It is relatively slow-moving, though with a few sudden turns that might catch you off-guard if you're trying to chase it around. Produce or meat is just fine with it. No rotten meat, though. Apparently, it's not a scavenger. Demonic: They're cute little devils, pun fully intended. These eggs have a pair of little clawed feet, a pair of black devil-wings, horns, rather womanly lips, and a black and pointy-tipped tail. They aren't super-speedy, but they do tend to make fairly abrupt turns while they're wandering about. These eggs will accept any type of meat (including rotten meat), though they won't touch produce with a ten-foot pole. Demons and their carnivorous habits, I suppose. Dragon: Dragon eggs are some of the coolest-looking eggs of the bunch. They have a pair of huge, hooked horns (think the devil in 'Legend' huge; they're quite disproportionate!), a spiky, reptilian tail, a jagged slash-line for a mouth, and a pair of huge taloned feet. They are fairly slow-turning and slow-moving, though they do a heck of a lot of walking for each bout of 'turning' they do. They won't touch meat at all, but you can still capture them with produce. Morph: I personally think that morph eggs look more like plant eggs than the plants do! They have a little green tuft on the top of their shell, and a pair of little root-like tentacles that they walk around on. They are slow-moving, easy to catch even without the help of food. And speaking of food, these eggs will eat both meat and produce, though they're at least picky enough to dislike rotten meat. Oddity: Oddity eggs have a little ridge on them, decorating their sides. This makes it very difficult to tell which way the egg is facing, so you'll have to pay full attention to the arrow above their heads when they stop. In addition, they turn sharply and abruptly, and are fairly quick on their 'feet'. They can be fed on meat of all sorts, including the rotten kind, as well as produce. Plant: This egg has stick-like feet and a little tuft of green coming out of the top of its 'head', as well as green lipstick. They are slow moving and slow turning, and therefore very easy to keep an eye on and to stay behind. They like both produce and meat, but they won't take rotten meat, even if it might make good fertilizer. Poltergeist: These fellows are painted up like Easter eggs, with a bright stripe down the middle, border-stripes in yellow, and some blue spots on the end. It also has a spring inside it, opening and closing it like a jack-in-the-box, or other toy. Because these eggs are the same on all sides, it's almost impossible to tell the way they're facing unless you're watching the arrows. Plus, they move fast and erratically. Not much fun to play with, let me tell you. It doesn't help that they're picky, only-produce-eating eggs, either. But they're worth catching for the cash, if nothing else. Reptile: The reptile egg has little clawed (think of alligator or dinosaur) feet, a tonpole-tail, and a big, lipsy mouth. They're a little faster than the slow eggs, with a couple more sharp turns, though it's easy enough to tell which way they're facing. They seem to be pretty quick to notice you, though, so be careful. Either produce or meat work well, though rotten meat doesn't. Undead: These eggs are identified by their slightly off-white shade, a distinct crack across their top, bony little feet (literally; their feet are made from a couple of bones), and a mouth that looks to have been stitched at some point. They are slow eggs in almost all ways, not making abrupt turns or swift shifts. They're really quite easy to catch. Feeding them produce, however, doesn't work; they're not fond of eating their veggies, apparently. However, they will take any kind of meat, including rotten. A4) EGGLIST ----------- Alright. So you've finally managed to catch that elusive egg. Now, what sort of egg do you have? Well, you can just let it hatch, and wait to see from there. But what happens if you've already got a full stable, and want to decide which egg to discard for the one you just caught? Well, here's the list of the egg-stats and costs, for those of you who're hunters. Remember: all eggs sell for 10g if you simply sell them right off the field instead of out of your stable. NOTE: These stats also hold true for the newly-hatched monster inside. Name | Type | HP |ATK | Sells for --------------------------------------------------------------- Needlebeak | Aerial | 13 | 9 | 50 Bloodsucker | Aerial | 13 | 9 | 70 Cockatrice | Aerial | 32 | 10 | 30 Chocobo | Aerial | 40 | 10 | 300 Garuda | Aerial | 68 | 13 | 500 Iffish | Aquatic | 25 | 9 | 10 Pincher Crab | Aquatic | 25 | 9 | 15 Seadragon | Aquatic | 32 | 10 | 40 Big Baby | Aquatic | 40 | 13 | 80 Seajack | Aquatic | 40 | 15 | 20 Stinger Bug | Arthropod | 13 | 9 | 100 Hoppin' Tick | Arthropod | 13 | 9 | 120 Silkspitter | Arthropod | 25 | 10 | 140 Gloomoth | Arthropod | 32 | 10 | 200 Sand Scorpion | Arthropod | 40 | 13 | 150 Molebear | Beast | 17 | 10 | 60 Rabite | Beast | 21 | 10 | 50 Teedie | Beast | 25 | 9 | 70 Howler | Beast | 32 | 15 | 80 Gray Ox | Beast | 68 | 13 | 100 Imp | Demonic | 17 | 9 | 300 Fierce Face | Demonic | 25 | 10 | 350 Punkster | Demonic | 32 | 10 | 400 Dark Stalker | Demonic | 32 | 15 | 600 Chimera Beast | Demonic | 40 | 13 | 750 Kid Dragon | Dragon | 40 | 13 | 500 Sky Dragon | Dragon | 68 | 13 | 5000 Land Dragon | Dragon | 68 | 15 | 5000 Shadow Zero | Morph | 17 | 9 | 50 Tezla | Morph | 21 | 9 | 60 Denden | Morph | 25 | 10 | 100 Slime | Morph | 40 | 9 | 10 Moldy Goo | Morph | 68 | 10 | 80 Eye Spy | Oddity | 13 | 7 | 5 Spiny Cone | Oddity | 17 | 9 | 100 Poto | Oddity | 21 | 9 | 150 Beholder | Oddity | 25 | 10 | 300 Springball | Oddity | 32 | 10 | 350 Lullabud | Plant | 25 | 9 | 30 Shrieknip | Plant | 25 | 9 | 50 Mushboom | Plant | 32 | 10 | 40 Malboro | Plant | 40 | 13 | 60 Wooding | Plant | 40 | 13 | 80 Chess Knight | Poltergeist | 21 | 10 | 250 Cursed Doll | Poltergeist | 25 | 10 | 100 Dainslaif | Poltergeist | 32 | 13 | 300 Polter Box | Poltergeist | 68 | 10 | 1000 Tonpole | Reptile | 21 | 9 | 20 Lizardon | Reptile | 25 | 10 | 80 Rattler Boa | Reptile | 32 | 10 | 100 Basilisk | Reptile | 32 | 10 | 600 Tyrannos | Reptile | 68 | 15 | 1000 Skull Beast | Undead | 21 | 10 | 10 Specter | Undead | 25 | 9 | 300 Skeleton | Undead | 32 | 10 | 20 Zombine | Undead | 40 | 10 | 5 Ape Mummy | Undead | 68 | 15 | 15 A5) NEWBORN MONSTER STATS ------------------------- For those of you who might be wondering what those monsters can do when they're first hatched, here's the list of the different abilities and such that they have. Monster | Pow | Skl | Def | Mgc | HP | Spr | Chm | Lck -------------------------------------------------------------- Basilisk | 3 | 4 | 4 | 7 | 7 | 3 | 8 | 5 Beholder | 2 | 3 | 4 | 8 | 4 | 4 | 10 | 5 Bloodsucker | 3 | 4 | 3 | 4 | 2 | 3 | 7 | 5 Chess Knight | 4 | 4 | 3 | 7 | 3 | 7 | 7 | 5 Chimera Beast | 7 | 3 | 7 | 7 | 8 | 8 | 4 | 5 Chobin Hood* | 8 | 10 | 7 | 4 | 10 | 3 | 3 | 5 Chocobo | 4 | 4 | 3 | 3 | 8 | 4 | 4 | 5 Cockatrice | 3 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 7 | 7 | 7 | 5 Cursed Doll | 3 | 4 | 3 | 4 | 4 | 3 | 4 | 5 Dainslaif | 7 | 8 | 3 | 4 | 7 | 4 | 3 | 5 Dark Stalker | 8 | 7 | 7 | 3 | 7 | 8 | 4 | 5 Denden | 4 | 4 | 8 | 3 | 4 | 3 | 3 | 5 Eye Spy | 2 | 3 | 2 | 7 | 2 | 4 | 7 | 5 Fierce Face | 3 | 3 | 3 | 7 | 4 | 4 | 7 | 5 Garuda | 8 | 8 | 7 | 4 | 10 | 4 | 4 | 5 Gloomoth | 3 | 4 | 4 | 7 | 7 | 4 | 7 | 5 Goblin* | 10 | 7 | 8 | 4 | 10 | 3 | 3 | 5 Gray Ox | 7 | 3 | 4 | 3 | 10 | 3 | 3 | 5 Hoppin' Tick | 2 | 7 | 2 | 3 | 2 | 4 | 4 | 5 Iffish | 3 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 4 | 3 | 3 | 5 Imp | 3 | 4 | 3 | 4 | 3 | 4 | 4 | 5 Kid Dragon | 4 | 4 | 4 | 7 | 8 | 7 | 7 | 5 Land Dragon | 10 | 8 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 5 Lizardon | 2 | 4 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 3 | 3 | 5 Lullabud | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 3 | 7 | 5 Malboro | 4 | 3 | 4 | 3 | 8 | 3 | 8 | 5 Mushboom | 4 | 4 | 3 | 3 | 7 | 4 | 3 | 5 Narcissos* | 10 | 8 | 7 | 3 | 10 | 7 | 3 | 5 Needlebeak | 3 | 4 | 2 | 3 | 2 | 4 | 3 | 5 Pincher Crab | 4 | 4 | 4 | 3 | 4 | 2 | 2 | 5 Polter Box | 10 | 2 | 3 | 3 | 10 | 3 | 3 | 5 Poto | 3 | 4 | 3 | 7 | 3 | 7 | 4 | 5 Punkster | 4 | 4 | 4 | 7 | 7 | 8 | 7 | 5 Rabbite | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 8 Rattler Boa | 4 | 7 | 4 | 3 | 7 | 3 | 3 | 5 Sahagin* | 7 | 7 | 7 | 3 | 10 | 7 | 7 | 5 Seajack | 7 | 7 | 3 | 3 | 8 | 4 | 3 | 5 Shadow Zero | 3 | 7 | 2 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 3 | 5 Silkspitter | 3 | 4 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 3 | 7 | 5 Slime | 3 | 2 | 10 | 3 | 8 | 2 | 2 | 5 Spiny Cone | 3 | 3 | 7 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 3 | 5 Springball | 3 | 8 | 3 | 3 | 7 | 4 | 7 | 5 Sky Dragon | 8 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 5 Succubus* | 3 | 7 | 3 | 10 | 7 | 8 | 10 | 5 Teedie | 3 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 4 | 3 | 3 | 5 Tomato Man* | 3 | 4 | 3 | 10 | 10 | 8 | 7 | 5 Tonpole | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 5 Tyrannos | 8 | 3 | 7 | 3 | 10 | 3 | 3 | 5 Wooding | 7 | 4 | 4 | 2 | 8 | 2 | 2 | 5 *Demi-human: only one of each per game, and not from egg (see 'demi-humans' section) Remember: first-hatched numbers aren't lifetime numbers. These will go up as the monster levels, and as you feed it different things. Basic stat-gains are listed here: Monster | Pow | Skl | Def | Mgc | HP | Spr | Chm | Lck -------------------------------------------------------------- Basilisk | .25 | 1 | 1 | 1.25| 1.25| .5 | 1.25| 0 Beholder | 0 | .75 | 1 | 1.25| .75 | 1 | 1.25| 0 Bloodsucker | .25 | 1 | .5 | 1 | .25 | .5 | 1.25| 0 Chess Knight | .75 | 1 | .5 | 1.25| .5 | 1.25| 1.25| 0 Chimera Beast | 1 | .75 | 1.25| 1.25| 1.25| 1.25| 1 | 0 Chobin Hood* | 1.25| 1.5 | 1.25| 1 | 1.25| .5 | .75 | 0 Chocobo | .75 | 1 | .75 | .75 | 1.25| 1 | 1 | 0 Cockatrice | .25 | .5 | .5 | 1 | 1 | 1.25| 1.25| 0 Cursed Doll | .5 | 1 | .75 | 1 | .75 | .75 | 1 | 0 Dainslaif | 1 | 1.25| .75 | 1 | 1.25| 1 | .5 | 0 Dark Stalker | 1.25| 1.25| 1.25| .5 | 1.25| 1.25| 1 | 0 Denden | .75 | 1 | 1.25| .75 | .75 | .75 | .75 | 0 Eye Spy | 0 | .5 | .25 | 1.25| .25 | 1 | 1.25| 0 Fierce Face | .5 | .75 | .75 | 1.25| .75 | 1 | 1.25| 0 Garuda | 1.25| 1.75| 1.25| 1 | 1.5 | 1 | 1 | 0 Gloomoth | .5 | 1 | 1 | 1.25| 1.25| 1 | 1.25| 0 Goblin* | 1.5 | 1.25| 1.25| 1 | 1.25| .75 | .5 | 0 Gray Ox | 1 | .5 | 1 | .5 | 1.5 | .5 | .75 | 0 Hoppin' Tick | 0 | 1.25| .25 | .75 | .25 | 1 | 1 | 0 Iffish | .25 | .75 | .5 | 1 | .75 | .75 | .5 | 0 Imp | .25 | 1 | .5 | 1 | .5 | 1 | 1 | 0 Kid Dragon | .75 | 1 | 1 | 1.25| 1.25| 1.25| 1.25| 0 Land Dragon | 1.5 | 1.25| 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 0 Lizardon | .75 | 1 | .5 | .75 | .75 | .5 | .5 | 0 Lullabud | .25 | .75 | .5 | .75 | .75 | .75 | 1.25| 0 Malboro | .75 | .5 | 1 | .5 | 1.25| .75 | 1.25| 0 Mushboom | .75 | 1 | .75 | .75 | 1 | 1 | .75 | 0 Narcissos* | 1.5 | 1.25| 1.25| .5 | 1.25| 1.25| .75 | 0 Needlebeak | .25 | 1 | .25 | .75 | .25 | 1 | .75 | 0 Pincher Crab | .75 | 1 | 1 | .5 | .75 | .25 | .25 | 0 Polter Box | 1.5 | .25 | .75 | .75 | 1.5 | .75 | .75 | 0 Poto | .5 | 1 | .75 | 1.25| .5 | 1.25| 1 | 0 Punkster | .75 | 1 | 1 | 1.25| 1.25| 1.25| 1.25| 0 Rabbite | .25 | .75 | .5 | .75 | .5 | .75 | .75 | .5 Rattler Boa | .75 | 1.25| 1 | .75 | 1.25| .5 | .5 | 0 Sahagin* | 1 | 1.25| 1.25| .5 | 1.25| 1.25| 1.25| 0 Seajack | 1 | 1.25| .5 | .5 | 1.25| 1 | .5 | 0 Shadow Zero | .25 | 1.25| .25 | .75 | .25 | 1 | .5 | 0 Silkspitter | .5 | 1 | .75 | .75 | .75 | .75 | 1.25| 0 Slime | .25 | .25 | 1.5 | .5 | 1.25| .25 | .25 | 0 Spiny Cone | .5 | .75 | 1.25| .75 | .25 | 1 | .75 | 0 Springball | .25 | 1.25| .75 | .75 | 1.25| 1 | 1.25| 0 Sky Dragon | 1.25| 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 0 Stinger Bug | .25 | 1 | .25 | .75 | .25 | 1 | .75 | 0 Succubus* | .5 | 1.25| .5 | 1.5 | 1 | 1.25| 1.5 | 0 Teedie | .25 | .5 | .75 | 1 | .75 | .75 | .75 | 0 Tezla | .25 | 1 | .5 | 1.25| .5 | 1 | 1 | 0 Tomato Man* | .25 | 1 | .75 | 1.5 | 1.25| 1.25| 1.25| 0 Tonpole | .25 | .75 | .5 | .5 | .5 | .75 | 1 | 0 Tyrannos | 1.25| .75 | 1.25| .75 | 1.5 | .75 | .75 | 0 Wooding | 1 | 1 | 1 | .25 | 1.25| .25 | .25 | 0 A6) SYNCHRO EFFECTS ------------------- When you and your pet are close enough together, a line of what looks like electricity will join the jewels, near your life bars. This is what is called Synchro Effect. The creatures gain the benefit of your HP Recovery effect, while you end up reaping the benefit of theirs, whatever it may be. This also counts for NPCs who are close enough to the monsters to be effected by their Synchro. Ape Mummy: ATTK PLS: Demi-humans (More damage to Demi-human monsters) Basilisk: EFCT PLS: Petrification (Petrification is added to attacks) Beholder: DFNS PLS: Staring (Defense against Staring increases) Big Baby: ATTK PLS: Morphs (More damage to Morph monsters) Bloodsucker: EFCT DFNS: Confusion (Protects against Confusion) Chess Knight: Defense Plus (Defense level increases) Chimera Beast: ATTK PLS: Oddities (More damage to Oddity monsters) Chobin Hood: ATTK PLS: Indirect attacks (More indirect attack damage) Chocobo: Status Recovery (Status abnormalities are removed) Cockatrice: EFCT DFNS: Petrification (Protects against Petrification) Cursed Doll: DFNS PLS: Poltergeists (Less damage from Poltergeists) Dainslaif: DFNS PLS: Staring (Defense against Staring increases) Dark Stalker: EFCT PLS: Darkness (Darkness is added to attacks) Denden: ATTK PLS: Aerials (More damage to Aerial monsters) Eye Spy: EFCT DFNS: Confusion (Protects against Confusion) Fierce Face: EFCT DFS: Flame Burst (Protects against Flame Burst) Garuda: ATTK PLS: Aquatics (More damage to Aquatic monsters) Gloomoth: EFCT PLS: Confusion (Confusion is added to attacks) Goblin: ATTK PLS: Slashing (Slashing attacks become more powerful) Gray Ox: ATTK PLS: Reptiles (More damage to Reptile monsters) Hoppin' Tick: Luck Plus (Luck level increases) Howler: Skill Plus (Skill level increases) Iffish: DFNS PLS: Aquatics (Less damage from Aquatic monsters) Imp: Bonus XP (Gain more XP crystals) Kid Dragon: DFNS PLS: Breath (Defense against Breath increases) Land Dragon: ATTK PLS: Demonics (More damage to Demonic monsters) Lizardon: Pak'n Choco (Drops Pak'n Choco) Lullabud: DFNS PLS: Plants (Less damage from Plant monsters) Mad Mallard: Defense Plus (Defense level increases) Malboro: EFCT PLS: Paralysis (Paralysis is added to attacks) Moldy Goo: Power Plus (Power level increases) Molebear: EFCT DFS: Darkness (Protects against Darkness) Mushboom: EFCT PLS: Sleep (Sleep is added to attacks) Narcissos: ATTK PLS: Striking (Striking attacks become more powerful) Needlebeak: DFNS PLS: Aerials (Less damage from Aerial monsters) Pincher Crab: EFCT DFNS: Sleep (Protects against Sleep) Polter Box: Rare Item (Rare items appear more frequently) Poto: ATTK PLS: Dragons (More damage to Dragon monsters) Punkster: DFNS PLS: Demonics (Less damage from Demonic monsters) Rabite: HP Recovery (HP recovery rate increases) Rattler Boa: EFCT PLS: Poison (Poison is added to attacks) Sahagin: ATTK PLS: Piercing (Piercing attacks are more powerful) Sand Scorpion: ATTK PLS: Plants (More damage to Plant monsters) Seadragon: EFCT PLS: Freeze (Freeze is added to attacks) Seajack: HP Plus (HP level increases) Shadow Zero: EFCT DFNS: Darkness (Protects against Darkness) Shrieknip: DFNS PLS: Sound Waves (Defense against Sound Waves) Silkspitter: DFNS PLS: Arthropods (Less damage from Arthropods) Skeleton: Regeneration (Quick recovery from KO Status) Skull Beast: DFNS PLS: Undeads (Less damage from Undead monsters) Sky Dragon: DFNS PLS: Dragons (Less damage from Dragon monsters) Slime: EFCT DFNS: Paralysis (Protects against Paralysis) Specter: EFCT DFNS: Freeze (Protects against Freeze) Spiny Cone: DFNS PLS: Oddities (Less damage from Oddity monsters) Springball: Invincible (Enemy attacks will not damage you) Stinger Bug: EFCT DFS: Poison (Protects against Poison) Succubus: HP Drain (Absorb the enemy's damage points) Teedie: EFCT PLS: Paralysis (Paralysis is added to attacks) Tezla: DFNS PLS: Morphs (Less damage from Morph monsters) Tomato Man: EFCT PLS: Flameburst (Flameburst is added to attacks) Tonpole: DFNS PLS: Reptiles (Less damage from Reptile monsters) Tyrannos: ATTK PLS: Arthropods (More damage to Arthropod monsters) Wooding: ATTK PLS: Beasts (More damage to Beast monsters) Zombine: ATTK PLS: Poison (Poison is added to attacks) A7) MONSTER BY MONSTER ---------------------- This is where there will be full details on the pets, from their type, to stats gains per level, to personal ratings on all the creatures. +=+=+=+=+=+=+ + B) PLANTS + +=+=+=+=+=+=+ B1) PRODUCE ----------- For the most part, when monsters level, they gain stats depending on what sort of creature they are. However, their stats can also be adjusted with the use of different produce. Each level, the monster will eat whatever is in its feedbox (even if it isn't at the farm) and will gain (or lose) in the stats that produce offers. Each monster can eat up to three pieces of produce per level. Produce by color: Red Orange Yellow --- ------ ------ Apricat Spiny Carrot Citrisquid Diceberry Loquat-shoes Springanana Peach Puppy Bumpkin Cornflower Applesocks Honey Onion Fishy Fruit Whalmato Orange'opus Rocket Papaya Green Blue Purple ----- ---- ------ Cabbadillo Heart Mint Sweet Moai Squalphin Spade Basil Lillipods Needlettuce Pine o'Clock Cherry Bombs Boarmelon Gold Clover Orcaplant Dialaurel Rhinoloupe Bellgrapes White Black ----- ----- Garlicrown Mush-in-the-box Conchurnip Toadstoolshed Pear o' Heels Mangolephant Masked Potato B2) PRODUCE AND STATS --------------------- In the game, there is a wonderful produce encyclopedia which goes about telling you the various effects that the plants have on your monsters; it tells you what stats go up, how it effects their personality, and which stats go down. A really nice thing, you'd think. Except for the fact that apparently, the produce of the game encyclopedia is wrong. Very, very wrong. Testing with the various fruits has shown that these numbers are not accurate, and that in some cases, they're *completely* wrong about which statistics the plant touches on. Frustrating, to be sure! Because of this level of incorrectness, the chart below has nothing to do with what the game encyclopedia says. Instead, this is the result of preliminary testing by one Benjamin Sperandio. Here, right from Benjamin Sperandio's letter to me, is how he went about testing the various produce for the numbers it gave: ---------------- First, let me explain the procedure I used: I happened to have three different pets at the time: a Gold Chocobo, a Rabite, and a Polter Box. First, I made sure each one had an empty feed box. Then, I wrote down all their current stats (including their resist stats). Next, I took each one out to gain experience and raised each one up by one level. After that, I wrote down these new stats, the result of natural growth only. Then, I reloaded the game from the moment I wrote down the initial stats, before they went up a level. Next, I set up a procedure where I put a single produce item in each feed box, taking note which pet is fed what. Next, I leveled each pet up a level in turn and wrote down the new stats. Then, I reloaded and repeated for each produce item. By carefully comparing the stats of the same pet before and after going up a level, once with no food and another with a single food item, it should be possible to get fairly accurate results. There were a few complications I had to take into account, however. For instance, some produce are supposed to have negative stat modifiers. But the only way these would show up in the results is either if a) the pet would have gained a point in that stat naturally or b) if it was fed some other produce first that would increase the stat. So, I tried to choose a pet that would naturally go up a point in the stat in question. But on a few occations none of my pets qualified. So, I had to feed them some other produce first, taking note of the difference. All the while, I had to be careful to keep the natural growth rates of each pet in mind. That was particularly important while testing foods that supposed to give a fraction bonus, like 0.5... There were a few occations where I questioned my results - it may have struck me as odd, or I felt like I may have missed something. So, on some cases I did a "re-test" by trying the produce again on a different pet. On each of the four 'corrections' I have listed below, I double or triple checked the results. Finally, note that I have not been able to test the ToadstoolShed produce at all. Simply put, I was never able to grow one. And even if I somehow could, I would have a really hard time testing the tiny, tiny fraction of bonuses that HonestLiar claims it gives. (How much patience would it take to test 1/8 of 1 point for multiple stats?!) ------------------------- As of yet, I haven't gone and tested the produce more than this. However, what little I have done seems to agree with what he has here. Therefore, for the moment, I'll leave his chart as the definitive one. Perhaps at a later date, I'll figure out a way to properly test all the fruits and make certain of these numbers. Abbreviations: CHM: Charm (the effectiveness of the monster's status attacks) DEF: Defense (the physical defense and 'armor' of the monster) HP: Hit Points (the monster's physical hit points and poison defense) LCK: Luck (affects the finding of rare items, eggs, and spirits) MGC: Magic (defense against raw magical attacks) POW: Power (the monster's raw strength for power attacks) SKL: Skill (the monster's finesse and technical attacks) SPR: Spirit (defense against status-affecting magics, like paralysis) PRODUCE CHART Produce Pow Skl Def Mgc HP Spr Chm Lck Animal Meat.. 1 1 -1 -1 0 0 0 0 Applesocks... 0 2 0 0 0 0 1 0 Apricat...... 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 Bellgrapes... 0 0 0 2 0 1 0 0 Boarmelon.... 1 1 0 0 0 1 -1 0 Bug Meat..... -1 1 0 0 0 1 -1 0 Bumpkin...... 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 Cabbadillo... 0 0 1 0 0 1 -1 0 Cherry Bombs. 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 CitriSquid... 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 Conchurnip... 1 0 1 -1 0 0 0 0 Cornflower... 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 Dialaurel.... 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Diceberry.... 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Fishy Fruit.. 0 1 0 1 -1 0 1 0 Garlicrown... 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 Gold Clover.. 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 2 Heart Mint... 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 Honey Onion.. -1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0 Lilipods..... 0 1 0 -1 1 0 0 0 Lizard Meat.. 0 0 1 -1 0 -1 1 0 Loquat-Shoes. 0 1 0 0 -1 0 1 0 Mangolephant. 1 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 Masked Potato 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 -1 Mush-in-a-Box 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Needlettuce.. 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 Orange'opus.. 0 0 2 0 1 0 0 0 Orcaplant.... 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 Peach Puppy.. 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 Pear 'O Heals 1 0 1 0 0 -1 1 0 Pine 'O Clock 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 Rhinoloupe... 1 0 0 -1 1 1 0 0 Rocket Papaya 0 0 0 1 0 0 2 0 Spade Basil.. 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 Spiny Carrot. 0 -1 0 1 0 1 0 0 Springanana.. 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 Squalphin.... -1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 Sweet Moai... 0 -1 1 1 0 0 0 0 Toadstoolshed 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0 Whalamato.... 0 0 -1 1 1 0 1 0 RESIST: Apparently, certain foods offer some resistances to attacks, as well as numbers in stats. This is the resistance it offers, with the numbers showing the degree it gives. PRODUCE CHART }----RESIST Modifiers---{ Produce Strike Slash Pierce Magic Animal Meat.. 0 0.5 0 0 Applesocks... 0 0 0 0 Apricat...... 0 0 0 0 Bellgrapes... 0 0 0 0 Boarmelon.... 0 0 0 0 Bug Meat..... 0 0 0 0.5 Bumpkin...... 0 0 0 0 Cabbadillo... 0.5 0.5 0.5 -0.5 Cherry Bombs. 0 0 0 0 CitriSquid... 0 0 0 0 Conchurnip... 0 0 0 0 Cornflower... 0 0 0 0 Dialaurel.... 0 0 0 0.5 Diceberry.... 0 0 0 0 Fishy Fruit.. 0 0 0 0 Garlicrown... 0 0 0 0 Gold Clover.. 0 0 0 0 Heart Mint... 0 0 0 0 Honey Onion.. 0 0 0 0 Lilipods..... 0 0 0 0 Lizard Meat.. 0 0 0.5 0 Loquat-Shoes. 0 0 0 0 Mangolephant. 0 0 0 0 Masked Potato 0 0 0 0 Mush-in-a-Box 0 0 0 0 Needlettuce.. 0 0 0 0 Orange'opus.. 0 0 0 0 Orcaplant.... 0 0 0 0 Peach Puppy.. 0 0 0 0 Pear 'O Heals 0 0 0 0 Pine 'O Clock 0 0 0 0 Rhinoloupe... 0 0 0 0 Rocket Papaya 0 0 0 0 Spade Basil.. 0 0 0 0 Spiny Carrot. 0 0 0 0 Springanana.. 0 0 0 0 Squalphin.... 0 0 0 0 Sweet Moai... 0 0 0 0 Toadstoolshed 0.125 0.125 0.125 0.125 Whalamato.... 0 0 0 0 
For the numbers as the Japanese guide gives them, check out the link to
Albatross's Ultimania translation. However, unfortunately, this seems to be
fairly inaccurate as well, in addition to leaving the Mangolephant out
completely. Still, it's worth the look; there is interesting information in
there!


B3) PERSONALITIES
-----------------
In addition to raising the monster's stats, different produce gives different
personalities. Each one of these is rated in a similar way to the stats,
although the actual numbers for them are hidden. The only way you can tell
your monster's personality is to pet them while they are grazing at the barn.
However, you can also get an idea of a monster's personality by the way they
act in battle.

Personality gain and loss seems to be random. When you feed your monster foods
that could make them manifest the personality, it may or may not take effect;
it's difficult to tell. However, apparently the personalities will come into
effect as soon as the foods are put in their box, rather than when they've
gone up in level. So feel free to drop off those fruits and then pet your
pets.

There are both good and bad monster traits. The 'good' traits make your
monster more effective in battle, while the bad ones make them... well... less
effective. According to Matthew Emirzian's Mastery Guide, the personalities
are as follows:

CLM=Calm
LON=Lonely
IND=Indecisive
FRI=Frendly
LAZ=Lazy
ARR=Arrogant
AGG=Aggressive
SCH=Scheming

Bad Traits:
Lazy - Your monster does almost nothing in battle.
Arrogant - Your monster rushes head first into battle.
Lonely - Your monster will cling to you in battle.
Indecisive - Your monster will have difficulty deciding which enemy to attack,
often leading to ineffective battling.

Good Traits:
Calm - Your monster attacks strategically instead of blindly.
Aggressive - Your monster will concentrate on one opponent instead of
wandering around attacking stupidly.
Friendly - Your monster will help you in attacking an opponent, and will
follow you in the battlefield towards an enemy.
Scheming - Your monster will stay back in battle and generally attack from a
distance. 

NOTE: This is a preliminary testing of the various attitudes. However, this
seems to be how they affect the monster in battle. If someone has some proof
otherwise, or suspects they've seen their monster acting way off-base of those
personalities, let me know.
 
Plant           | Plus to             | Minus to
-------------------------------------------------
Applesocks      | CLM++ IND++         | none
Apricat         | CLM+                | none
Bellgrapes      | SCH++               | FRI--
Boarmelon       | LON+                | none
Bumpkin         | AGG+ ARR+ SCH+ LAZ+ | none
Cabbadillo      | FRI++ LON++         | none
Cherry Bombs    | FRI+                | none
Citrisquid      | SCH+                | none
Conchurnip      | AGG+ ARR+           | none
Cornflower      | AGG+                | CLM-
Dialaurel       | AGG++               | CLM--
Diceberry       | AGG+                | none
Fishy Fruit     | none                | SCH-
Garlicrown      | none                | ARR-
Gold Clover     | FRI++               | SCH-- 
Heart Mint      | none                | LAZ-
Honey Onion     | IND+                | none
Lilipods        | CLM+ IND+ FRI+ LON+ | none
Loquat-shoes    | SCH+ LAZ+           | none
Mangolephant    | AGG++ ARR++         | none
Masked Potato   | none                | FRI-
Mush-in-the-box | none                | none
Needlettuce     | CLM+                | AGG-
Orangeo'pus     | SCH++ LAZ++         | none
Orcaplant       | SCH+                | FRI-
Peach Puppy     | FRI+                | SCH-
Pear o'heels    | ARR+                | none
Pine o'clock    | none                | AGG- CLM- SCH- FRI-
Rhinoloupe      | none                | CLM-
Rocket Papaya   | CLM++               | AGG--
Spade Basil     | none                | LON-
Spiny Carrot    | CLM+ IND+           | none
Springanana     | none                | IND-  
Squalphin       | FRI+ LON+           | none
Sweet Moai      | LAZ+                | none
Toadstoolshed   | none                | none
Whalamato       | none                | AGG-


B4) MEATS
---------
In addition to produce, you can also feed your monster the meat of various
creatures. This meat can also be used to catch eggs, along with produce.
However, very few meats actually give any sort of bonuses to the monster at
all. Those meats are mentioned in the list above, but reproduced here for
posterity: Animal Meat, Bug Meat, and Lizard Meat. If any of the other meats
have any use at all in feeding the monster, it's certainly not in
stat-gaining. Strange, that Squaresoft would put in so many meats without any
use to them at all. It makes me wonder whether they simply sent the game out
too early after programming, and they *were* supposed to do something.
Oh well. I suppose we shall never know.


B5) SEEDS AND PLANTING
----------------------
The seeds that you plant have a direct link with the produce you get. However,
so does the day that the seeds are planted, and, I suspect, the mana levels of
the orchard/Trent, itself. For instance: a crooked (red) seed will almost
always grow red produce, and will grow rarer and/or more red if the day is
Salamander, and the Salamander level of the orchard is high (a good reason to
put the Mana Tree right next to your orchard!). Red fruits are Salamander,
Blue are Undine, and Green are Dryad. White and Black are Wisp and Shade,
respectively, though neither of them have a day attributed to them. I'm not
yet positive of the other colors, but I believe each one has a corresponding
day.

Mixing seed colors acts like mixing paint does. For instance: a red (crooked)
and blue (round) seed planted together has chances of growing red, blue, or
purple fruit. Likewise, if a yellow (oblong) and a red (crooked) seed are
planted, you have a good chance at getting orange fruit, as well as the red
and yellow stuff. If a green (big), orange (small) or long (purple) seed are
planted together, you will sometimes get black fruit as well as the other
colors (always a Mush-In-The-Box, in my personal experience). Planting a spiny
seed (rainbow color) results in a random growing of fruits, almost always
rare, according to the day and mana level of the place. This is probably the
easiest way to get rare fruits, even with the rareness of spiny seeds in
general. Also, planting a spiny seed and the seed of the color you're wanting
(crooked seed for rare red produce, round seed for rare blue, etc.) gives a
much better chance of getting rare fruit of the kind you're looking for,
particularly if it's planted on the day of the fruit's spirit.

For those of you who are trying to get spiny seeds for this reason, I suggest
the following way: find a place where lullabuds are fairly powerful (a new
game+ on the road might do it, or planting a lot of mana near it). Bring a
Polter Box, and start hacking on them. You'll find that they'll give up a
fairly good number of spiny seeds, as well as some of the other harder-to-get
seed colors, in particular 'flat'. It won't give you gallons of them, but it's
certainly better than the one or two that you might get from Trent within six
hours!

An easier way, as reported by Myst Erik Try's FAQ! If you have a Polter Box
with you, the easiest way to collect spiny seeds is to go at the *lowest*
possible level of Shrieknips, Malboro, and Lullabuds (low-level Lullabuds will
likely be easier to find; just go to the road). Compared to the 6% chance
you'll have every other level of getting spiny seeds (and the 6% chance of
getting flat seeds with it), you'll have a whopping *12.5%* chance. There's no
chance for flat seeds, but if you're not hunting for those, obviously go with
this one.

Toadstoolsheds! One of the most-hunted fruits, due to the multitude of
stat-gains, and the complete lack of any losses they give. However, these are
also the rarest of the fruits, and it's nearly impossible to get them.
According to Aaron Ramussa: I've still not gotten a Toadstoolshed. I remember
reading once that a Big seed Spiny seed combo has a 2% chance of making them.

In my own personal plantings, I have multiple (read, four times) received one
with a spiny seed/long seed combination (though I wasn't aware of the days),
and with low mana levels at my home. While other combinations may work, I've
finally settled on the fact that long+spiny=#1. Of course, YMMV.


UPDATE INFO
------------
11/05/00 
- Version 1.0 
- First version of the FAQ. 

11/09/00 
- Version 1.5 
- Added more Synchros to the list. Only missing one, now
- Finally got the info for the Chimera Beast and Tyrannos eggs
- Some slight spelling and aesthetic adjustments. Unimportant stuff
- Added a second 'note' in 'Egg Locations'
 
01/24/01 
- Version 2.0
- Finally pulled my nose out of other RPGs to do some minor work
- Finally completed the Synchro list!
- More spelling adjustments. I really need a good spellchecker
- Added to the 'still to come' section
- First work done on the 'newborn monster stats' section.
- Corrected 'personal' plantings section: long seed, not big
- Added another successful 'toadstoolshed' planting to my notes

01/25/01 
- Version 2.1
- Several minor spelling corrections
- Corrected the 'index' file and 'version'. Forgetful, aren't I?
- Added a 'note' to produce and stats

02/21/01 
- Version 3.0
- Ultimania translations for meats and fruits. THANKS ALBATROSS!
- Adjusted the 'monster stats' list into a much neater chart
- Added more monster stats
- Correction to the 'fast eggs' note: demon eggs are actually slow
- Added a note on selling eggs to the egglist text
- Added to the 'still to come'
- Rearranged the egglist, for ease of reading

03/21/01 
- Version 3.1
- Started a new+ game, by the 'world' FAQ. Thanks guys!
- Slight correction in the Tomato Man's location 
         
03/31/01 
- Version 3.5
- Added more monsters to the 'stats' chart
- Finished editing the produce stats chart
- Added a note to the monster stats chart
- Produce list gained the 'resistances' and the +/- from Ultimania
- Soon to come: Monster By Monster section
- Added a general consensus question in 'Requests'. Please answer!
- Added to the 'still to come'
- Finally corrected the misspelling on MY OWN NAME in the title. You'd think I
would have noticed this before now.... laugh at will

11/05/01 
- Version 4.0
- Finally pulled out LoM again and got back updating!
- Corrected the location of Guri The Goblin
- Added a new egg location to my map: Duma Desert!
- Added detail to locating some of the Demi-humans
- More monster stats!
- Directions to some of the egg locations
- Actually getting numbers for meat and produce, soon to be added
- Added a chart for stat gains. May be removed when I get my Monster By
Monster section finished and in.
- Added to 'still to come' and removed the consensus question

03/06/02 
- Still version 4.0
- Uploaded the version to GameFAQs after a loooooong vacation

03/02/06 
- Version 5.0
- OH EM GEE! LOOK! I'm not dead! And neither is this FAQ!
- Added all the egg descriptions
- Finished the egg locations' directions
- All monster stats, now
- Tidied the index and the titles for easier reading
- Many additions, confirmations, re-writes on now-proven details
- Completely reformatted to match submission guidelines. This unfortunately
clipped a few of the charts down, but no info was lost

06/17/06
- Version 6.0
- Finally got a spellchecking text program. FAQ is now completely spellchecked
- Got some information out of Myst Erik Try's walkthroughs to supplant my own
info: mana levels and item drops for spiny seeds
- Also got a Gameshark code to allow me to test all the produce through (yay!)
- Added monsters that had been missing from my lists: Gray Ox, Needlebeak
- Slight reformatting; I have an actual character-counter, now

02/04/07
- Version 6.1
- Look! Rabbite! Special thanks for a MU* friend of mine who ANSII'd it up!
- Email changed to reflect my new email

03/27/2007
- Version 6.1.1
- IM added for those who want to contact me directly.

07/19/2011
- Version 6.2
- Twitter added to contacts
- ICQ removed; I haven't had it in a very long time
- Copyright updated
- Very slight formatting change; you'll probably never notice
- Directions corrected for Poltergeist Egg in the tower. Right is not left!
- Tezla and Stinger Bug added; list should be complete now

02/02/2012
- Still version 6.2
- Just adjusted copyright


STILL TO COME
-------------
While I don't know how regular updates will be, this is where I have written
the additions planned for this list. I will add things with updates, as well
as getting them worked-on, so keep track of what you would like to see!
-Pet ratings (personal opinion)
-Working out the selling price for raised monsters. Is there a pattern?
-Re-checking the produce numbers to make certain of their accuracy


REQUESTS
--------
These are requests by me and other people, both, for things they would like to
see added to this FAQ. If you have anything you would like to add, either a
request or information, mail it to kurasufaqs@gmail.com with the information,
as well as the name you would like to be known by. Plus, if you would like
your e-mail added into the acknowledgement, let me know that as well, and I'll
accommodate.
-Anything written in 'Still To Come'
-Any missing information in my lists and charts
-The exact numbers when it comes to monster personality
-Any information at all on the effects of meat on a monster (aside from the
 few already up)
-Any information on pets and produce not mentioned in this FAQ. 


THANKS TO...
-----------
St.Ajora: For the synchro of the Succubus (and for the Chobin Hood, though I'd
already managed to get that one)

Aaron Ramussa: For the Synchro of the Tyrannos, Tomato Man, Goblin, and
Sahagin. Also for the suggestion on how to get a toadstoolshed and other
planting suggestions.

Matthew Emirzian: For letting me quote his Legend Of Mana Mastery Guide. Check
it out at http://www.gamefaqs.com/console/psx/file/legend_of_mana_mastery.txt

Earle The Tomato Man: For the exact locations of all the demi-humans.

Anthony Nelson: For the Narcissos' Synchro effect. 

Albatross: For all the information he managed to garner from the Ultimania's
guide (the foremost Japanese game-book producer), and the permission to use
his information in my FAQ. Check out what other stuff he's found!
http://www.geocities.com/xo_pitseleh/lom5.html

Frederic Desroches/Anthony Nelson: For writing a wonderful world-map FAQ,
which allowed me to have a much better range of pets to experiment with.
Thanks you two! And check out the lovely FAQ itself:
http://db.gamefaqs.com/console/psx/file/legend_of_mana_map_a.txt
(FYI: I used Plan 4)

Matt Nadolny (cowlover24@yahoo.com): For giving me the exact location of the
egg in the Duma Desert. 

Even Staves (laserybuttocks@hotmail.com): For pointing out a flaw in my
directions to get to Fernando the Narcissus. The flaw is: they didn't work.
*cough* Corrections made. Also for reminding me that you need a space in your
stable to get the demi-humans, and not just 'no pet with you'.

Nanami Tendo (AerisNoTenshi@aol.com): For giving me the final clue to
unlocking Tikkle's quest, so I was able to get the last Demi-human. Thanks!
I needed that!

Benjamin Sperandio (bsperan@mo-net.com): For his awesome work on the monster
charts, double-checking the numbers. I couldn't have gotten this far without
him, and without his letter, I might never have picked up the FAQ again. You
should all thank him muchly!

HonestLiar: For explaining how the produce numbers worked, making testing and
re-testing much easier. His Produce guide can be found at GameFAQs as well.
Look it up; there's fantastic concepts for feeding procedures in there.

Myst Erik Try: For his incredible FAQs of Monster Drops (which gave me the
numbers needed for the spiny and flat seed finding), his Land Placement Guide
(which confirmed to me that the distance from home is the thing affecting
monster appearance, rather than the amount of mana), and his Gameshark codes
(which allowed me to test all the produce thoroughly without having to go and
grow every single thing fifty or so times). *BIG* thank you for your great
work, Sir! Check his stuff out at GameFAQs:
http://db.gamefaqs.com/console/psx/file/legend_of_mana_monsterdrop.txt and
http://db.gamefaqs.com/console/psx/file/legend_of_mana_af_event.txt.

David Frigon: For pointing out that I have a sucky direction sense when it
comes to left and right in The Tower Of Leires. Correction made, and person
thanked!

Greg Squire: For pointing out I had forgotten to add Tezla and Stinger Bug to
my list.